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Info & advices

All Our Guides are Certified UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guides

This is the highest award in mountaineering and the only internationally recognised qualification for working in mountainous glaciated terrain. Holders are licenced to practice rock and ice climbing, mountaineering and off piste skiing, worldwide without grade or altitude limit.

The International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations - IFMGA (or UIAGM in French) is made up of the national guiding associations of 23 member countries. All work to the same strict training syllabus and assessment standards which are regularly monitored between nations. In so far as it is possible, the associations try to ensure that travelling guides are allowed to work freely in the mountain regions of other member nations. To guide in the Alps you must have the IFMGA qualification.

Becoming an IFMGA guide is not easy : There are tough assessments in each of the key mountain disciplines (Rock, Ice, Alpinism and Skiing) over a 5 years course which also includes a wide range of professional topics including first aid and rescue training, sports physiology, coaching, the law, professional standards, environmental issues, mountain weather, snow science, avalanche forecasting, mountain history and foreign languages. Aspirant guides then undergo an alpine and a skiing apprenticeship period in the latter part of their training, when they work alongside senior guides.

Guiding Ratios

Without exception you can consider that in mountain activities a small group is synonymous of safety and flexibility. To be less exposed to objective dangers as bad weather, rock falls or avalanches you have to move fast : this is incompatible with big groups. Low ratios are more expensive but they worth their cost because they will maximise your safety, increase the chances of success and you’ll have a greater enjoyment.

Civil Liability Insurance

It is illegal to operate without civil liability insurance. Furthermore, as a client you stand very little chance of getting compensation from a negligence case if something went wrong (and your rescue insurance wouldn't be valid either!). All our guides must have a valid Civil Liability Insurance to work with them. They must be able to show it on request.
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Mont Blanc Ascents : Warning

Every year the Alps Adventure office receives hundreds of enquiries from people looking to climb Mont Blanc. Many have limited mountaineering experience and need sound advice before choosing an appropriate trip.

Mont Blanc is not easy - Although Mont Blanc is not technically difficult in good conditions, it is still a big and serious mountain with all the attendant dangers that this entails. Climbers die every year on this summit because they had underestimate the difficulties. Many clients find the summit day the most exhausting thing they have ever done.

Being acclimated - Arriving from your home, you have no acclimatisation, this is why we propose only a 5 days course. Even then a small percentage of people just don't acclimatize quickly enough, as everyone has their own acclimatisation rate which cannot be improved by fitness. A shorter trip means less chances of summiting.

Book early -There is always a very high demand for guides on Mont Blanc in the main season. The booking of the hut must be done quite early : the Goûter hut is full booked as soon as its online booking center opens….mid-march.

Mont Blanc is a wonderful objective but keep in mind that experienced climbers and professionals know it’s one of the most serious summits in the Alps.
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Matterhorn Ascents

This is a serious peak not to be underestimated, as there are few belays and guides can only look after one client at a time. Dry conditions are needed underfoot and in some summers this can also prove difficult. To make an ascent you need to be sure footed and quick at scrambling, as well as have good levels of fitness and some rock climbing ability.
Due to the altitude and difficulties involved, you ideally need to be out in the Alps acclimatizing for a week or so prior to the ascent. Your guide will always want to know your experience and check you out before setting foot on the mountain - An ascent of the Matterhorn is always dependant on good, dry conditions on the route: July- August.
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Off Piste Skiing

For a mountain Guide Off piste skiing is the most demanding activity due to the constant risk of avalanche and the speed at which a group can venture into danger. Guides are however the people to teach off piste awareness and avalanche safety, as well as all the mountain skills associated with ski touring and back country travel in winter. As with climbing in the Alps, rescue insurance and rapatriation is a necessary.
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